Showroom Shopping and Hopping

A couple of rainy days in NYC forced me to stick with inside activities, but I can’t complain when visiting Zang Toi’s and Brioni’s showrooms were involved.

Brioni's showroom

Zang’s Fall 2010 Collection is exquisite and he was more than happy to serve Wendy Brandes and me tea and let us “go to town” trying on all kinds of amazing dresses. We were seriously like kids in a candy store – a very sophisticated and expensive candy store.

a look from Zang's fall 2010 collection

Jewelry diva WendyB had to see Zang for a fitting on a sexy little chartreuse number with black sequins and tassels. After the adjustments were made, we started pulling pieces off the racks and squeezing ourselves into the built-in corset gowns. Toi’s dresses are so feminine and flattering; they make you feel instantly gorgeous.

suede skirt with latticework overlay - I decided to forgo the fox!

Toi has such a great eye for how to make pretty clothes. He knows exactly how to make his clients (whatever size) look good. One of my favorite pieces in the collection was a black and iris color, simple sheath dress that has the most beautiful shape. The fabric is actually made with a gradual transition in color from black to iris, thus creating a wide stripe effect. Toi cleverly and strategically placed the wide black band across the midsection. Thoughtful design ideas like this separate Zang Toi from others.

a look from Zang Toi's fall 2010 collection

Toi repeated the concept of the band across the waist in an iris color silk floor length gown with tiny black sequins and round beads applied to the center portion of the dress. Stunning. Zang certainly is the king of evening glamour and his gowns are favorites on the red carpet, but the brilliant designer can also do ready-to-wear as good as anyone. His luxurious ¾ sleeve peacoat and cute little black mini with his elaborate embroidered logo give Michael Kors something to worry about.

model from Zang Toi's fall 2010 collection (left) and glamorous WendyB in the same piece (right)

The following day, Wendy and I headed to Rockefeller Center to meet with Heather Shimokawa and Kristin Isham at Brioni. Again, I found myself drooling, wanting, longing. I have always loved the sexy sophistication that Brioni oozes and being able to go through each piece in the collection was heaven.

Kristin (Director of Sales) and Heather (Director of P.R.)

me in a tight fitting Brioni sample

Brioni has a reputation for quality, both in fabric and make. Seeing the clothes up close, being able to examine every stitch and every detail was really a treat. Obviously, Brioni makes a perfectly tailored jacket, but their body conscious dresses are flying off the racks – like the sleek, pencil skirty tank dress in black leather. So sexy it’s a crime. As a designer myself, I can’t help but notice the little details like the leather covered shoulder pads perfectly placed and neatly hidden below the wide shoulder straps of the tank dress.

Brioni leather dress

The luxurious fabrics and the attention to detail really make Brioni special. Pick stitching accents the complex seaming of a dress, deconstructed jackets never look messy, raw edges still look clean with very narrow rows of double stitching along the edges, linings have “Brioni” in jacquard across the back, mink fully lines an anorak, sweater yarns are so light and soft that you’d want to sleep in them and double-faced cashmere provides its own lining with the contrasting color on the back of the goods.

Brioni jacquard lined jacket (top) and double-faced wool unlined jacket (bottom)

Heather was so incredibly sweet (and she made me a dee-lish espresso). She walked us through the line and let us try on the showroom samples and snap pictures like two spoiled brats. She didn’t even mind when I pretended to be an elephant with their 6 ft. long, grey suede “scrunch gloves!” Yes, on top of all the beautiful clothes, Brioni has some insane (in a good way) gloves that would make any outfit look incredible. I tried on several pairs including the Mongolian fur gloves and the ultra long gloves that are meant to be scrunched up the entire arm. They may not be the quickest or easiest accessory to put on, but they look amazing!!

Brioni Mongolian fur gloves (left) and grey suede "scrunch" gloves (right)

 

What a great couple of days in NYC. What an incredible city in which I live!!

It's 10pm - Do You Know Where the Vampires Are?

The 10pm TV time slot is always a struggle for me.  If I'm home, I usually watch about 20 minutes of the news, get depressed and flip the channel.  Tonight, while clicking my remote, I happened upon the latest episode of Law & Order: Criminal Intent and since I'm always happy to watch the tall, dark and intelligent, Jeff Goldblum, I paused. 

It seems as though Law & Order is the latest to jump on the vampire van, the bloodsucker bandwagon, the Transylvania train... somebody stop me, I've got more! Hmm, come to think of it, wasn't Jeff Goldblum in Transylvania 6-5000? So, apparently he's already done the research for his Law & Order episode!

Ed Begley Jr. and Jeff Goldblum in the 1985 film, Transylvania 6-5000

The lovely Tina, from The Occasional Cook, left a comment on my Vamps in Vogue post last week reminding me of the Count from Sesame Street and Count Chocula!  These were two very influential Counts in my life!  They made me feel like vampires weren't scary, instead they were funny, they could teach and they were delicious!

Count von Count & Count Chocula

This is my favorite vampy outfit right now, but I don't think it would be complete without Wendy Brandes' symbolic Vampire Diana Necklace (and ring) or her incredibly detailed and unexpected Bat Necklace in agate and silver.  Black nailpolish and red lips and I'm all set!

Givenchy, Fall 2010

Photo: Firstview

Wendy Brandes: Vampire Diana Necklace (left) in sterling silver and blackened silver & Bat Necklace (right) in agate and sterling silver

Fall Back Just As We Spring Forward

Just as it's starting to get hot and we approach the official start of summer, designers are stressing out about delivering their first shipment of Fall 2010 merchandise to the stores.  They are also starting to get their creative juices flowing as they turn their attention to Fall 2011.

DKNY runway, Fall 2010

Photo: Coutorture

So, what can we expect to see in the stores in July and August?  I thought I would share my Fashion Week overview that I wrote for the Fashion Group International.  I also have a report on FGI's Fall Ready-to-Wear presentation  by Marylou Luther, but that piece is in the bulletin for members only.  To become a member of the Fashion Group International, check out their website.

Fall 2010 New York Fashion Week started as sadly as it ended, bracketed by the tragic passing of designer genius Alexander McQueen and a heartfelt farewell to Bryant Park. But, what was sandwiched in between was pretty fantastic.

Alexander McQueen

Many designers opted to show off-site instead of the tents. Tent favorite Ralph Rucci unveiled his exquisite pieces in his SoHo space, Betsey Johnson showed at the Altman Building and FGI provided the space for its rising star winner, Peter Hiladgo, to exhibit his subtly intricate dresses. Marc Jacobs scaled back his guest list at the armory, but uploaded his show to YouTube for the entire world to see just hours later. Alexander Wang broadcasted his show on a giant LED screen in Times Square.

Neutral color palettes dominated the runways. On the first day in the tents, Max Azria sent shades of taupe and grey strolling down the catwalk. He followed with similar palettes at the BCBG show and for Herve Leger later in the week. Ports 1961 designer Tia Cibani also showcased tones of grey warmed up with rich browns and bronze. Designer duo Costello Tagliapietra chose toasty desert hues complemented by dusty rose and fiery orange. Other designers to stand their neutral ground included Michael Angel, Catherine Malandrino, Cynthia Steffe and Behnaz Sarafpour.

Costello Tagliapietra (left), Ports 1961 (right)

Photo Credits: Firstview

Classic camel is definitely back in vogue—not that it’s ever really out (that’s why we call it “classic”). But, it is one of the “must have” colors for fall. Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors and Yeohlee featured camel color as did last season’s Project Runway winner, Irina Shabayeva, who showed a herd of camel coats, a few of which were painted with feathers. Speaking of camel coats, Carolina Herrera showcased some of the most beautiful outerwear pieces of the season in double-faced cashmere with sable trim.

Carolina Herrera (left), Irina Shabeyeva (right)

Photo Credits: Firstview

While dove grey, beige, camel and pale tints ruled the runways, the fall 2010 season is not going to be completely colorless–shades of red, purple, turquoise and cobalt all made a strong appearance on the catwalks as well. The Custo Barcelona show was, as usual, a huge draw, and Spanish designer Custo Dalmau never fails to please the crowd: The label is known for color, wild prints and mixing unexpected fabrics. Custo’s fall 2010 collection added some much needed vibrancy to the sea of neutrals flooding the runways that week. We also saw bright color and pattern from Anna Sui, Alexander Herchcovitch and Peter Som.

Custo Barcelona

Color blocking continues as a trend. Grey and nutty-brown serve as the foundation for DKNY’s fall 2010 collection. These base colors were chopped into patterns using shots of cobalt, chocolate and maroon. Phillip Lim approached color blocking a little differently, through oversized buffalo checks showing up in a skirt, pant, shorts and a cape.

DKNY

Photo: Firstview

Also, an emphasis on texture was apparent on the runways—the fall/winter season is a natural for chunky fibers and yarns. We saw plush velvet, extravagant fur, wooly knits, nubby tweeds and crosshatch menswear suiting. Donna Karan contrasted textured fabrics with buttery satin, which contributed to the modern quality of her line.

Donna Karan

Photo: Firstview

Save the Garment Center crusader Nanette Lepore worked in a rich, warm palette encompassing texture through plaid flannel, metallic jacquard, plush velvet and beading. Diane von Furstenburg showcased just a few of the cozy knit sweaters we’ve come to except from her, but this season, DVF added other textural elements, such as metallic embellishment, fur, prints and rosettes. The Rodarte girls went for an arts & crafts patchwork feeling for fall 2010, mixing knits with chiffon, prints with plaid and crochets and embroideries.

Nanette Lepore (left), DVF (right)

Photo Credits: Firstview

Luxury and fur continue to thrive, and while many designers are scaling back, there are those who will never need to—and the society women who buy their clothes would not stand for it anyway. Ralph Rucci added a little more sex appeal to draw in a younger customer this season, but his main focus remained on his loyal clients. He showed refined, sophisticated pieces in moiré, cashmere, mink, leather and guinea feathers.

Ralph Rucci

Photo: Firstview

“Ladies Who Lunch” won’t have to look much further than Oscar de la Renta next fall. Feminine skirt suits and outerwear in expensive fabrics were accented with fur. Colors were strong and saturated, belts flattered waistlines and prints were appropriately fresh. The award for the use of the most fur goes to designer Dennis Basso. Basso showed one exquisitely lavish coat, capelet and stole after another.

Oscar de la Renta (left), Dennis Basso (right)

Photos: Firstview

Leather is another fall staple and the 2010 season did not disappoint. Newcomer Joseph Altuzarra showed a tight little assortment of leather, fur-trimmed, cinched-waist, sexy black jackets, dresses and skirts. Coach’s Reed Krakoff debuted his signature line at a gallery in Chelsea. The military-themed collection featured shearling and leather mixed with wool and knits. Rad Hourani and Yigal Azrouel are two young designers who show both men’s and women’s apparel. Both designers used leather quite liberally. Even the Proenza Schouler boys mixed some leather into their graphically driven collection.

Yigal Azrouel (left), Reed Krakoff (right)

Photos: Firstview

A movement to bring professional attire back to the workplace for fall 2010 was indicated. Tailored suits took a serious stroll down the runway at Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Tahari and Ralph Lauren. At Jacobs’ show, shoulders remained strong, but were brought in considerably from his fall 2009 proportion, and crisp menswear jackets still looked soft and pretty. Along with her lovely little black cocktail dresses, Wang mixed in several black tie suits. Tahari belted the jackets, a la YSL, on his sleek power suits while Lauren’s beautifully tailored herringbone and velvet jackets armed with leg o’ mutton sleeves were balanced with slim-fitting trousers.

Tahari (left), Marc Jacobs (middle), Ralph Lauren (right)

Photos: Firstview

Several designers went for a stripped-down and refined approach for fall 2010. The King of Minimalism, Franciso Costa, brought us sculptured silhouettes that morphed into rounder shapes for Calvin Klein this season. Narciso stuck to his usual formula, producing clean yet cleverly executed dresses and jackets. While maintaining fuss-free, classic styling, Michael Kors kept things from looking uptight by baring a leg with a high slit in a skirt or showing some skin with an ultra-deep V-neck. Even the typically bold and sometimes overdeveloped Isaac Mizrahi toned it down and outfitted his women in lots of solid neutral-based colors, subtle prints and simple shapes.

Calvin Klein (left), Michael Kors (right)

Photos: Firstview

Bryant Park has served as the venue for New York Fashion Week since IMG Fashion Sr. V.P. Fern Mallis put it there back in 1993. While it’s sad to say good-bye, we are moving forward—and according to IMG Fashion, the space at Lincoln Center offers 25 percent more square footage than Bryant Park.

On Trend

Yesterday, I had the pleasure of attending the Fall/Winter 2010/2011 ready-to-wear presentation by the Fashion Group Foundation. I’m going to keep today’s post brief, because I’m actually covering the event for the Fashion Group Members Bulletin, so I’ve got to get crackin’ on my article!

As always, FGI’s Creative Director, Marylou Luther, put together a fantastic overview of the collections from New York, London, Milan and Paris. The presentation is so popular in the industry; FGI has four shows in one day in order to accommodate everybody who wants to attend. After the trend overview, panelists Ken Downing (Sr. VP, Fashion Director, Neiman Marcus), Sarah Brown (Beauty Director, Vogue) and Julie Gilhart (Sr. VP, Fashion Director, Barneys) answered questions posed by moderator, Diane von Furstenberg, President of the CFDA. Unfortunately, Robin Givhan (Style, Washington Post) was unable to attend as she was with Mrs. Obama! OK, I guess we can excuse her :-)

New York: Altuzarra (left), London: Burberry (right)

Milan: Fendi (left), Paris: Akris (right)

The trend overview was full of great information that is essential to editors, designers and buyers. In terms of color, Camel made the biggest statement on the runways -- I called it immediately after the New York Collections (click here for my post “Camel’s Back”). It’s always gratifying to know that I am on the same wavelength as one of the top trend forecasters in the country!

Aquascutum (left), Tahari (right)
 

"Mash-ups” are a trend to look for next season (although, it’s always present). This term refers to the combination of fabrics and prints that normally wouldn’t work together, but when mixed and matched with an artist’s eye, the result is brilliant. Dries Van Noten is the reigning King! Fellow blogger, Elena (fabulous finds) just mentioned this trend on her Facebook page. Again, I love it when great minds think alike!

Dries Van Noten, Fall 2010

The panel discussion was both interesting and encouraging. The message that stuck out for me is that authenticity is more important than ever in this economy. Well, that and Diane von Furstenberg should have been on the panel rather than asking the questions! She has a lot to say and a lot of experience-- I would have preferred to hear more of her point of view. Ms. von Furstenberg did manage to get her two cents in whenever possible. I love a strong woman!

DVF, Fall 2010

The Fashion Group is based in New York, but has regional chapters in cities throughout the country (as well as some international cities). To become a member and to find out about the perks, visit www.fgi.org

All photo credits: Firstview