vintage NY/London mini in chartreuse
Showing posts with label vintage clothes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage clothes. Show all posts
Me Likey
Stopped in my tracks passing by a vintage shop on my block the other evening, I snapped this pic so that I could add it to my "items I hope to possess one day." Adorable, no?
What's Old Is New - Third Installment
A while back I wrote about Cristobal Balenciaga and how the label sat fairly dormant for quite some time after the great designers’ passing, but came back strong in the 21st century, thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere. Then, I posted about Pierre Balmain and the struggle the brand had after the designer died in 1982. Finally, in 2005, Christophe Decarnin rescued the brand. To complete the trilogy, I wanted to add Jean Dessés to the group although nobody has revived the label, it is making headlines again today.
Hopefully, most of you read my recent post about the Sex in the City 2 premiere in NYC on Monday evening. Kristin Davis (aka Charlotte) wore a marvelous, pink chiffon dress by the late Jean Dessés. I thought she looked flawless, although I would like to have seen some larger earrings since she kept her neck bare. Wendy Brandes’ Cleopatra earrings would have been PERFECT -- Kim Cattrall wears these amazing 18K yellow gold and diamond, 4 ½” dangles in the film.
Anyway, back to Jean. I knew that I had some information on the great designer somewhere at home so I pulled out my old book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank. There he was in the glossary hiding below the “Three Jacques” as I refer to them (or Trois Jacques); Jacques Heim, Jacques Fath and Jacques Griffe. Good grief! Jean, Jacques and Pierre. Is there anything else to name a French designer? Yes, of course there’s Yves, Hubert, Gabrielle, Christian… Somehow, this all reminds me of a scene in one of my all-time favorite slapstick films, Top Secret! Watch as Val Kilmer is introduced to the French Resistance...
This is hilarious! And Val was so cute back then...
So, back to Mr. Dessés! Sorry, I am easily side tracked. You know my motto, “I’d have an obsessive personality if I didn’t get bored so quickly.” Jean Dessés is actually of Greek descent (born in Alexandria, Egypt in 1904). He moved to Paris to study law, but found a passion for design instead. Dessés started sketching dresses in his notebooks during class (like another great designer, Geoffrey Beene) and by 1925, he started selling his drawings.
Dessés worked as a designer from 1925 – 1937 at the Maison Jane in Paris and upon leaving, he opened his own house. Mr. Dessés worked in chiffon quite frequently and he fancied ombré fabrics. His elegant gowns were draped, twisted, gathered works of art often showcasing uneven hems. The designer was also fond of kimono sleeves, asymmetry and architectural manipulation.
In 1963, Dessés closed his business and retired to Greece where he ran the boutique he had opened there in 1955. He died in 1970. Occasionally, his pieces can be found in select vintage shops, one of them being Decades, where Ms. Davis apparently picked up her perfect pink frock.
Kristin Davis in Jean Dessés
Photo: Getty Images
Hopefully, most of you read my recent post about the Sex in the City 2 premiere in NYC on Monday evening. Kristin Davis (aka Charlotte) wore a marvelous, pink chiffon dress by the late Jean Dessés. I thought she looked flawless, although I would like to have seen some larger earrings since she kept her neck bare. Wendy Brandes’ Cleopatra earrings would have been PERFECT -- Kim Cattrall wears these amazing 18K yellow gold and diamond, 4 ½” dangles in the film.
Anyway, back to Jean. I knew that I had some information on the great designer somewhere at home so I pulled out my old book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank. There he was in the glossary hiding below the “Three Jacques” as I refer to them (or Trois Jacques); Jacques Heim, Jacques Fath and Jacques Griffe. Good grief! Jean, Jacques and Pierre. Is there anything else to name a French designer? Yes, of course there’s Yves, Hubert, Gabrielle, Christian… Somehow, this all reminds me of a scene in one of my all-time favorite slapstick films, Top Secret! Watch as Val Kilmer is introduced to the French Resistance...
This is hilarious! And Val was so cute back then...
So, back to Mr. Dessés! Sorry, I am easily side tracked. You know my motto, “I’d have an obsessive personality if I didn’t get bored so quickly.” Jean Dessés is actually of Greek descent (born in Alexandria, Egypt in 1904). He moved to Paris to study law, but found a passion for design instead. Dessés started sketching dresses in his notebooks during class (like another great designer, Geoffrey Beene) and by 1925, he started selling his drawings.
Dessés black crepe dress, 1952
Photo: courtesy of Roger-Viollet from the book, CoutureDessés worked as a designer from 1925 – 1937 at the Maison Jane in Paris and upon leaving, he opened his own house. Mr. Dessés worked in chiffon quite frequently and he fancied ombré fabrics. His elegant gowns were draped, twisted, gathered works of art often showcasing uneven hems. The designer was also fond of kimono sleeves, asymmetry and architectural manipulation.
the great designer in 1960
Photo: Willy Maywald from the book, Couture
In 1963, Dessés closed his business and retired to Greece where he ran the boutique he had opened there in 1955. He died in 1970. Occasionally, his pieces can be found in select vintage shops, one of them being Decades, where Ms. Davis apparently picked up her perfect pink frock.
Hello Seventies?
So, I have to apologize for completely skipping over the decade of the 70's in yesterdays post! Kristin from K-Line and WendyB both scolded me! But, be patient my darlings, I thought that the fantastic 70's could use a post of its own!
When I think about the 1970's I am reminded of pet rocks, mood rings, head bands, and of course, bell-bottoms which I was forced to wear! I used to feel so ridiculous in these trousers with giant circumference leg openings and I vowed NEVER to wear them so long as I had a say (i.e. after my mom stopped dressing me!). And I am proud to report, I have completely upheld my promise!
Just because I still have nightmares of horrible patchwork outfits (usually matching my sister) and lots of orange and brown, doesn't mean the entire era was a fashion fiasco! Unfortunately, I was too young to appreciate or even know about some of the fabulous styles that were happening around me.
Vintage apparel is "having a moment" lately, and many fashionistas and celebrities are opting to wear timeless perennial pieces because they actually seem newer and more novel than the typical red carpet frocks.
Vintage styles inspire fashion today. My very hip friend Evan, owner of the vintage shop FROCK in Nolita, NYC, shared a little secret with me the last time I visited the store. "You wouldn't believe how many designers buy pieces here for "inspiration" for their new collections," he said. Oh yes I would!!
YSL classic look from 1975
(left) 1970's mood ring, (right - 1978) me in a patchwork printed knit top, denim overall skirt, knee socks and Hush Puppies and my sister in something orange and plaid bell-bottoms. Scary!
Just because I still have nightmares of horrible patchwork outfits (usually matching my sister) and lots of orange and brown, doesn't mean the entire era was a fashion fiasco! Unfortunately, I was too young to appreciate or even know about some of the fabulous styles that were happening around me.
This is just awful -- what else can I say?
Even Yazoo and Alison Moyet said "Goodbye Seventies"
On the flip side - looking good in the 70's...
Halston and Bianca Jagger looking gorgeous in the 70's
Halston, 1972 silk jersey dress
Photo Credit: FIT Museum (click here to read my article for Lookonline.com on the FIT exhibit "Seduction")
Vintage apparel is "having a moment" lately, and many fashionistas and celebrities are opting to wear timeless perennial pieces because they actually seem newer and more novel than the typical red carpet frocks.
Emma Watson (left) in vintage 70's Ossie Clark at the 2009, Harry Potter premiere in London and beautiful jewelry designer, Wendy Brandes (right) in 2009 in her vintage Ossie dress (for more of Wendy in her vintage pieces, click here)
Vintage styles inspire fashion today. My very hip friend Evan, owner of the vintage shop FROCK in Nolita, NYC, shared a little secret with me the last time I visited the store. "You wouldn't believe how many designers buy pieces here for "inspiration" for their new collections," he said. Oh yes I would!!
WendyB in 2008 in her vintage Clovis Ruffin dress (left) and a similar style by Christian Francis Roth that I snapped at his Spring 2009 show
Get Some Courrèges
Continuing my theme from the other day, Fashion Repeats, I thought I would head back to the 60's -- not on some psychedelic acid trip or anything, but back to the fashion archives. Fashion trends usually repeat every 25 years or so, which is why we have seen the resurgence of the 1980's over the past few seasons. Since I'm a child of this decade, I don't find what I see in magazines, stores and on the runways right now to be as tragic as others. Since I liked a lot of the styles and wore the clothes before, it makes sense that I would like them again as long as the pieces look current. A modernized version of a 1980's style, if you will.
a very modern looking Courrèges leather jacket from the 1960's
Claude Montana, circa 1988 (left) & Balenciaga, Spring 2010 (right)
Considering that fashion tends to recycle approximately every 25 years, it is also logical that I find the styles of the 1960's to be visually appealing. I've always been drawn to strong shapes and geometric styling and this has manifested into my personal design aesthetic. As a young, budding designer, I was not only influenced by designers of the 80's (i.e. Montana, Mugler, Ferre), but also of the 60's.
Some of my favorite 1960's fashions are the creations of André Courrèges. Courrèges is a French designer known for his ultra-modern style. Born March 9, 1923 in the Pyrenees, Courrèges traveled to Paris at age 25 and worked briefly at a fashion design house (Geanne Lafaurie) before going to work with Spanish designer, Cristobal Balenciaga.
Courrèges, 1965 (Left)
(Right) Me in 1988 in my pathetic attempt to make a similar jacket style (I didn't even know how to sew back then!) I'm subjecting myself to this embarrassing photo for the good of this post!
Courrèges eventually started his own collection, introducing space-age clothes. His designs were angular and he used shapes such as the square, trapezoid and triangle to create strong, futuristic and minimalistic pieces. The designer said that he built his dresses rather than designed them. Bright colors, plastic materials, synthetic fabrics and bold black and white patterns were rigidly constructed into unique styles that became Andre’s signature look.
Courrèges collage
Fashion Repeats
I've been kinda busy lately and I realize that I've been neglecting my blog a bit. Shame on me! This week, I am working on a few new styles and I always like to do a bit of research first -- some brainstorming to get the creative juices flowing.
I promise to share more on these garments later, but in the meantime I came across this amazing photo on the net (from an old LIFE magazine). Something about it is speaking to me... perhaps that insanely wide and magnificent leather belt adorned with metal hardware. How many designers have cinched the waist of a runway model with a version of a cummerbund style belt? Good style and good fashion always repeats itself.
vintage motorcycle girl
Yves Saint Laurent available on Net-A-Porter
Vintage Advantage
As I mentioned in Thursday’s post, I went to an amazing vintage boutique called FROCK, down in Nolita. I promised to share a little bit more about this fabulous treasure chest of couture and high-end vintage apparel.
First of all, the space is great and I really appreciate how everything is sectioned off by color! According to owner Evan Ross, that is how most people prefer to shop and it forces them to see all of the beautiful pieces that they may have passed over if they were just looking in one particular section, like cocktail attire or sweaters, for example. This makes perfect sense to me. I color code my closet. Well, I actually section off categories first (i.e. jackets, dresses, skirts, pants, etc.) and then I arrange by color. Anal much?
Anyway, Evan is extremely knowledgeable and extremely helpful. I highly recommend paying him a visit and allowing him to pull out some wonderful pieces and style you. As I perused the racks, I happened upon a fantastic Louis Feraud dress. The fabric and the volume spoke to me and even though I knew it would be “too much dress” for me, I simply HAD to try it on! Evan was excited to see it and quickly accessorized me with the perfect red belt and Lucite necklace (an absolutely magnificent piece that I already had my eye on!). Below is the final result…
I’m so in love with this shop and I am interested more than ever in vintage merchandise. I am very disappointed in what’s happening with fashion as of late (with the exception of couture and some other great ready-to-wear designers). I think vintage is newer (in concept) and more interesting than anything you will see in SAKS. In fact, many high-end designers actually purchase vintage pieces and copy them (exactly) for their collections. Then, of course, the moderately priced labels copy the high-end designers and the budget chains eventually copy the moderate labels and suddenly, we see a version of this beautiful Feraud dress in Target! OK, I’m feeling ill. Let’s get back to FROCK…
I had such a lovely visit and became very intrigued by this wonderful little shop, so I asked Evan Ross to answer some questions I could share with all of you…
STACY: How long have you been in business?
EVAN: I’ve been in business now for 7 years -- one and a half as a showroom and the rest as retail.
STACY: Can you give a brief little background as to how you got involved with vintage merchandise?
EVAN: I got into vintage a long time ago starting in high school and then even more in college when I was a "club kid". The collection at the showroom/store started to grow when I was collecting pieces and using pieces during my 11 years as a stylist. I used the pieces for advertising, music videos, celebrity purposes, etc.
STACY: Where do you get most of your product?
EVAN: Pieces come from all resources: private collections, auctions, scouring out of the way places around the globe and from vintage dealers.
STACY: Who are some of your best customers and some famous ones too?
EVAN: The best customers are those with an individual sense of style and an appreciation for quality. At FROCK our vintage wears are for those looking for what we call modern vintage. It is timeless vintage -- clothing that doesn't look like costume. It’s indicative of an era, but not pigeonholed to that era. Some famous clients are Patricia Field, Sarah Jessica Parker, Julia Roberts, Maggie Gyllenhaal, and the Olsen twins.
STACY: Do you think vintage has gained popularity in the last several years?
EVAN: Vintage has been popular since the "Sex and the City Era", but has seen a resurgence once again as of late. People are interested in individual style. With everything so mass market and produced, vintage clothing affords the wearer to exhibit singular style. You'll never end up on the “who wore it best list” because you'll be the only one. Vintage at FROCK's level also affords the wearer the chance to wear clothing of a certain quality that would be at an unattainable price point in the present day.
FROCK
170 Elizabeth Street
NY, NY 10012
212.594.5380
Frocknyc.com
shop owner, Evan Ross with jewelry designer, WendyB
(both in vintage shades available at FROCK)
View looking toward the back of the shop
Anyway, Evan is extremely knowledgeable and extremely helpful. I highly recommend paying him a visit and allowing him to pull out some wonderful pieces and style you. As I perused the racks, I happened upon a fantastic Louis Feraud dress. The fabric and the volume spoke to me and even though I knew it would be “too much dress” for me, I simply HAD to try it on! Evan was excited to see it and quickly accessorized me with the perfect red belt and Lucite necklace (an absolutely magnificent piece that I already had my eye on!). Below is the final result…
Dress: Louis Feraud Couture, 1982: $1,550
Belt: red snakeskin, circa 1980: $150
Lucite Necklace from the 50's: $1,100
Shoes: in dressing room at Frock
I’m so in love with this shop and I am interested more than ever in vintage merchandise. I am very disappointed in what’s happening with fashion as of late (with the exception of couture and some other great ready-to-wear designers). I think vintage is newer (in concept) and more interesting than anything you will see in SAKS. In fact, many high-end designers actually purchase vintage pieces and copy them (exactly) for their collections. Then, of course, the moderately priced labels copy the high-end designers and the budget chains eventually copy the moderate labels and suddenly, we see a version of this beautiful Feraud dress in Target! OK, I’m feeling ill. Let’s get back to FROCK…
I had such a lovely visit and became very intrigued by this wonderful little shop, so I asked Evan Ross to answer some questions I could share with all of you…
STACY: How long have you been in business?
EVAN: I’ve been in business now for 7 years -- one and a half as a showroom and the rest as retail.
STACY: Can you give a brief little background as to how you got involved with vintage merchandise?
EVAN: I got into vintage a long time ago starting in high school and then even more in college when I was a "club kid". The collection at the showroom/store started to grow when I was collecting pieces and using pieces during my 11 years as a stylist. I used the pieces for advertising, music videos, celebrity purposes, etc.
STACY: Where do you get most of your product?
EVAN: Pieces come from all resources: private collections, auctions, scouring out of the way places around the globe and from vintage dealers.
STACY: Who are some of your best customers and some famous ones too?
EVAN: The best customers are those with an individual sense of style and an appreciation for quality. At FROCK our vintage wears are for those looking for what we call modern vintage. It is timeless vintage -- clothing that doesn't look like costume. It’s indicative of an era, but not pigeonholed to that era. Some famous clients are Patricia Field, Sarah Jessica Parker, Julia Roberts, Maggie Gyllenhaal, and the Olsen twins.
STACY: Do you think vintage has gained popularity in the last several years?
EVAN: Vintage has been popular since the "Sex and the City Era", but has seen a resurgence once again as of late. People are interested in individual style. With everything so mass market and produced, vintage clothing affords the wearer to exhibit singular style. You'll never end up on the “who wore it best list” because you'll be the only one. Vintage at FROCK's level also affords the wearer the chance to wear clothing of a certain quality that would be at an unattainable price point in the present day.
Wendy Brandes in vintage Bottega Veneta shades she purchased at FROCK
FROCK is located at in New York City at 170 Elizabeth Street between Spring and Kenmare. They offer a range of apparel, handbags, jewelry and accessories from the 50's through 80's. Also, FROCK carries Linda Derector’s collection of vintage sunglasses (as pictured on WendyB above and on Evan & Wendy in the first photo).
FROCK
170 Elizabeth Street
NY, NY 10012
212.594.5380
Frocknyc.com
Vest Friends
I had a great day yesterday despite the annoying phone call I had with a so-called customer service individual which resulted in me thanking them for their tremendous lack of help and abruptly slamming down the phone. Well, it was a cordless so I pressed the END button really hard! At least I made my pal, jewelry designer, Wendy Brandes laugh! I was with Ms. Brandes at the time because I went over to her place to drop off her custom "gangsta vest" that I made for her.
A few months ago, I was wearing this piece out for drinks with the girls and WendyB took a liking to it. So, she and I paid a visit to the amazing B&J Fabrics and selected some beautiful pinstripe in order to make her a duplicate vest. I made a muslin first and we had a fitting, then I adjusted the muslin and we had another fitting. Finally, I drafted the paper pattern and cut into the fabric... no turning back now! I was quite happy with the results and so was Wendy. We decided to go out on the town in our matching ensembles (you know, like those annoying husbands and wives that dress alike, or identical twins that don't have their own identity!).
First stop was to visit a very cool and very chic vintage shop on Elizabeth Street in Nolita called FROCK. Amazing! Wendy happens to be friendly with owner Evan Ross who treated us like the celebrities and socialites who frequent this little gem of a shop. But, more on that tomorrow! Later, my talented designer friend, Tatyana joined the party and the four of us had a nibble and some cocktails at "Delicatessen." Note: Order the truffle, parmesan fries!!
WendyB models in her "gangsta" vest and vintage patchwork clutch
A few months ago, I was wearing this piece out for drinks with the girls and WendyB took a liking to it. So, she and I paid a visit to the amazing B&J Fabrics and selected some beautiful pinstripe in order to make her a duplicate vest. I made a muslin first and we had a fitting, then I adjusted the muslin and we had another fitting. Finally, I drafted the paper pattern and cut into the fabric... no turning back now! I was quite happy with the results and so was Wendy. We decided to go out on the town in our matching ensembles (you know, like those annoying husbands and wives that dress alike, or identical twins that don't have their own identity!).
Stacy Lomman (me) & WendyB in our matching "gangsta vests"
First stop was to visit a very cool and very chic vintage shop on Elizabeth Street in Nolita called FROCK. Amazing! Wendy happens to be friendly with owner Evan Ross who treated us like the celebrities and socialites who frequent this little gem of a shop. But, more on that tomorrow! Later, my talented designer friend, Tatyana joined the party and the four of us had a nibble and some cocktails at "Delicatessen." Note: Order the truffle, parmesan fries!!
Evan Ross & WendyB
UPDATE 3-26: I had to show the inside of WendyB's vest... the lining is fantastic...it's hard to see, but it's a stripe twill pattern. Good choice Wendy!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
